Hiking in the Peak District as a youngster, I used to dream of cresting a ridge and finding something akin to Losehill House winking enticingly at me from the valley below. Then I’d unfurl my still damp tent.

The key draw here at this distinctive Arts and Crafts, set between Lose Hill and Win Hill, is the refinement: although it’s midway up a remote track in the middle of a mud-splattered national park, the white-dominated decor (and exterior) remains spotless, and blazered and neat-blouse-wearing folk keep up standards in the lounge-bar area, which flows into the Orangery restaurant, burnished with two AA rosettes.

Hiking the surrounding hills may bring you here, but it’s the food that will probably bring you back. Far more than lip…